Odèn, a weekend between salt flats and cliffs in Solsonès

A saltwater swim at the foot of the mountain, a walk beneath the Canalda rock, and a plate of trumfos. Three good reasons to discover this corner of the Pre-Pyrenees.

Who would expect to find salt flats in northern Solsonès? In Cambrils, in the municipality of Odèn, you can visit some old salt pans and even swim in a saltwater pool. At the other end of the municipality, in Canalda, the salt pans are carved into a rocky cliff overlooking the village. Between these two stops, the road winds through a landscape of forests, meadows, and scattered farmhouses at the foot of the Odèn and Port del Comte mountain ranges. It's worth dedicating a weekend to this route and leaving time for some walking.

Cambrils, a saltwater bath in the heart of the mountains

The salt flats of Cambrils are a great first stop. In the museum, you can discover how saltwater was used to produce salt and how this work was an integral part of village life. If the pool is open, you can complete your visit with a refreshing dip. Swimming has a unique feel when you look up and see the mountains all around you.

From Cambrils, you can also hike the Racó spring and salt flats route. It's 5.3 km long with a 360-meter elevation gain, something to keep in mind when choosing your excursion. In Racó, a small cluster of farmhouses, you'll find the spring and two chapels that bear witness to different periods in the town's history. Sant Quintí is Romanesque, and Santa Bàrbara dates back to the 17th century. On your way back to Cambrils, look out for the remains of the castle atop the hill overlooking the town.

Canalda, on foot below the cliff

The Canalda rock is visible from afar, but its true scale is only truly appreciated at its base. Rock shelters and caves, inhabited for centuries, are found within its walls. Some, like the Coves dels Moros, still retain medieval walls. Observe them from the path and notice how the stone walls are adapted to the rock's contours.

If you'd like to spend half a day exploring, the municipal brochure includes the Canalda rock and rock shelter route, a 6.5 km hike that takes about three hours. You'll also find a return route through Canalda, a 5 km hike with a 260-meter elevation gain. Make sure to set aside some time to visit the village. In the Romanesque church of Sant Julià, it's worth pausing to admire the wrought-iron doorway beneath the semicircular arch and looking up at the large bell gable. From here, you can clearly see how the houses and farmhouses make use of the terraces at the foot of Puig Sobirà.

From Santa Cecília to the high mountain meadows

The village of Odèn, at an altitude of 1291 meters, is a collection of farmhouses scattered around the old parish church of Santa Cecília and the castle, documented in 1029. The church, of Romanesque origin, stands at the foot of the Odèn mountain range. It's a good place to stop and understand how the houses are distributed in this mountainous area, separated by fields and forest.

Near Montnou, the valley rises towards the Bacies meadows. At almost 2,000 meters above sea level, the meadows offer an open landscape that contrasts with the cliffs of Canalda. If you fancy a short walk, the brochure includes the one-kilometer Vermell trail. You'll also find suggestions for activities with children at the Nature Center, such as the family game with an 800-meter course.

A tour of the western valleys

If you have a second day, you can visit Valldan, Móra Comdal, and Sàlzer, in the part of the municipality where the waters flow down to the Segre River. In Valldan, the church of Sant Just i Sant Pastor stands at the center of the small village.

In Móra Comdal and Sàlzer, on the other hand, the houses are scattered. In Sàlzer, look for the small Romanesque church of Santa Magdalena. If you want to spend a good part of the day hiking, there's the route of Les Roques Medes and Móra Comdal, which is 13.6 km long with 710 meters of elevation gain.

Try the trumfos and stay overnight

Here, potatoes are called "trumfos." They're one of the products you can try at the local restaurants or find in shops, along with black peas, mountain apples, and Cambrils salt. If you like to time your getaways with a festival, check when the Mercat del Trumfo i la Sal (Potato and Salt Market) and the sheepdog trial are held. Staying in a rural guesthouse allows you to spread out your visits and sit down to a meal without having to watch the clock.

You can start with Cambrils and leave Canalda for the next day. That way you'll have time for a swim, a walk along the cliffside, and a long lunch break.

Download the brochure!