The cities of the dead, the most unique cemeteries in Catalonia

Death is a defining aspect of human existence, and a stroll through a cemetery offers insight into how people understand and experience the end of life. These so-called cities of the dead are often unfamiliar and solitary spaces, far removed from the hustle and bustle of daily life in a society that frequently turns its back on this natural reality. Within cemeteries, one often finds hidden curiosities and a rich historical and artistic heritage.

On this route we will visit several cemeteries throughout Catalonia, funerary spaces with different characteristics that stand out for their unique architecture, their location or the stories they hide behind, a journey that will take us to Olius, Arenys de Mar, Barcelona, Portbou and Bausen.

The cemetery of Olius

Near the church of Olius, in the Solsonès region, we find one of the most unique cemeteries in Catalonia, built in 1916 in the Modernista style. This space was designed by Bernardí Martorell i Puig and is characterized by its close integration with nature.

The cemetery was built on a site of fallen rocks surrounded by holm oaks, elements that were intended to be symbolic, as the fallen rocks represent death and the green holm oaks represent life. One of the main characteristics of this space is that it respected the natural environment, eschewing the classic cemetery structure of rows of niches and cypress trees.

Bernardí Martorell was clearly influenced by Gaudí, which is reflected above all in the parabolic arch that leads into the cemetery and in the double cross at the top of the funerary space. Another interesting feature of the site is that the tombs and mausoleums are carved into the rock.

The Olius cemetery is a prime example of the integration of nature and architecture, a place where modernist funerary art reached one of its most remarkable expressions. Over the years, the cemetery has retained its original structure, preserving the essence of the space without compromising its character.

Arenys de Mar Cemetery

The cemetery of Arenys de Mar could be considered the literary cemetery of Catalonia thanks to the poet and writer Salvador Espriu, who transformed it into a literary and mythical setting with his work "Cementiri de Sinera" (Cemetery of Sinera). Espriu 's literary universe thus finds an important reference point in this place, reflected in verses such as: " I will stroll through the order of green, motionless cypresses above the calm sea."

But beyond its literary significance, the Arenys cemetery is a prime example of a Mediterranean maritime cemetery. The grounds are situated atop the Cerro de la Piedad hill; one of its most famous views is from the entrance walkway, from where, turning towards the gate, one can observe the Mediterranean Sea through the cypress trees.

The cemetery was inaugurated in 1868 next to the Hermitage of La Piedad. It is divided into three large terraces crossed by a cypress-lined walkway. The first two terraces are lined with niches, while the third contains mausoleums built by wealthy individuals such as industrialists and those who had emigrated to the Americas. It is here that funerary art reaches its zenith, with sculptures by artists such as Josep Llimona, Frederic Marès, and Venanci Vallmitjana.

Returning to the more literary aspect of the cemetery, there we can find the niche where Salvador Espriu is buried, number 381, at the end of the second terrace on the left. This spot can be reached from the cemetery path, a cypress-lined trail that climbs above the sea; once at the top of the hill, one can see the town and other coastal locations surrounding Arenys de Mar.

Poblenou Cemetery

In this Barcelona neighborhood, the first cemetery outside the city walls was built. Until then, burials took place in cemeteries located next to churches. The construction of this cemetery aimed to end this practice, as burials within a densely populated city like Barcelona caused hygiene problems and were a breeding ground for epidemics.

The cemetery was inaugurated in 1775, but in 1808 it was destroyed as a result of the French invasion; in 1819 it was rebuilt on its current site. Poblenou Cemetery was also known as the Eastern Cemetery or the Old Cemetery, as it predated the newer Montjuïc Cemetery. The reconstruction followed a Neoclassical design by the Italian architect Antonio Ginesi. The layout features two intersecting avenues, creating four large sections for burials. At the intersection of these avenues stands a monument dedicated to the victims of the yellow fever epidemic that struck Barcelona in 1821.

Other points of interest include the front of the cemetery with its garden and four sections, the main gate flanked by two obelisks decorated with sculptures symbolizing faith and hope, created by the sculptor F. Pagès Serratosa, and the angel presiding over the portico, a work by the Vallmitjana brothers. As is often the case in cemeteries, the section with the mausoleums is the most spectacular and artistically interesting. It demonstrates how the Barcelona bourgeoisie also sought to display their power through mausoleums and pavilions constructed with great artistic quality. Among all the funerary works, the sculpture "The Kiss of Death," created in 1930 by Jaume Barba, stands out.

The Poblenou cemetery is also home to several illustrious figures; you can visit the tombs of the composer Josep Anselm Clavé, the writer Serafí Pitarra or the burial site of one of the most well-known old noble families of Barcelona, the Maldà.

Beyond historical figures, the tomb of "Santet" is also very popular. This nickname belongs to Francesc Canals, who died in 1899 at the age of 22. In life, he was much loved by those around him; he was said to be very generous and possessed supernatural abilities. Shortly after his death, a veneration of his tomb began, as it was believed that he granted favors. This popular devotion continues to this day.

Portbou Cemetery

The Portbou cemetery is situated in a place of great beauty, as, like other maritime cemeteries, it lies right by the sea. The cemetery was completed in 1855; until then, burials were carried out by sea in the neighboring municipality of Colera, because there was no open land route.

The cemetery in this border town is inextricably linked to Walter Benjamin, the German essayist, translator, and philosopher of Jewish origin, who died in Portbou on September 26, 1940. Benjamin, along with others, was fleeing the Nazis to reach Portugal and from there cross the Atlantic to the United States. Walter Benjamin never arrived, as he died in Portbou under mysterious and unexplained circumstances. The philosopher was buried in the Portbou cemetery, although the exact location of his remains is unknown. There is a commemorative plaque, and opposite the cemetery entrance stands a memorial designed by the Israeli artist Dani Karavan, titled “Passatges” (“Passages”), a work consisting of a sloping metal tunnel that descends to the sea.

Teresa's Cemetery, Bausen

We finish the route in the Val d'Aran, in the municipality of Bausen, where we will visit a small cemetery in which only one person is buried: Teresa.

A tragic and romantic story unfolds around this place, dating back to the early 20th century. Teresa and Francesc were a young couple who wanted to marry; they were distant relatives, a common occurrence in those days given the area's isolation and sparse population. The priest, citing this kinship, refused to authorize the wedding unless they paid for a dispensation. The couple refused and decided to live together without marrying. They had two children, but their happiness ended when Teresa died of pneumonia at the age of 33 in May 1916. The priest refused to bury her in the village's Catholic cemetery, believing she had lived "in sin." The villagers then decided to build a small civil cemetery in the middle of the woods to give her a proper burial.

Thus, this small cemetery can still be found in the Coret landscape, about 800 meters from the historic center of Bausen. The small enclosure is surrounded by a stone wall and an entrance gate; in the center stands the grave with a headstone that reads: “ To my beloved Teresa, who died on May 10th at the age of 33,” and another inscription that reads: “ To our dear mother.” Francesc, because of the Spanish Civil War, had to go into exile in France; his wish upon dying was to be buried next to his beloved, but political circumstances prevented it. Teresa's grandchildren, now residents of France, still take care of the small cemetery.

In 2016, the residents of Bausen and the Aran Valley institutions paid public tribute to Teresa because, one hundred years after her death, this story known as "the lovers of Bausen" is still remembered.